5 Common 3D Printing Problems and their Solutions

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3D printing is an exciting and rapidly developing technology that has brought about a revolution in the field of manufacturing, design, and prototyping. However, like any technology, 3D printing can also come with its own set of problems. In this blog, we will discuss some common 3D printing problems and their solutions.


1. Under and Over Extrusion

Under extrusion occurs when the 3D printer does not extrude enough plastic, which results in gaps between the infill and the outer boundaries of the object being printed. If the nozzle does not extrude a sufficient amount of plastic, there will be spaces between the extrusions that make up each layer. 
Over-extrusion occurs when a printer prints an excessive amount of plastic, leading to a buildup of excess plastic that gives the appearance that the parts are melting.

Cause: 
  • The most common cause of under and over-extrusion is an incorrect extrusion multiplier – a setting in the software that specifies the rate at which your printer will extrude material.
  • Another common cause of under and over-extrusion is incorrect filament diameter, which affects the flow rate and interlayer adhesion.
Solution:
  • You can fix these issues by changing the multiplier in the software and making sure the filaments you use are of right diameter.

2. Stringing (hairy prints)

Stringing is a common problem when printing at high temperatures. It happens when the nozzle leaves traces of small strings of plastic behind. Plastic that leaks out of the nozzle also wastes material and drives up the cost of printing.
Stringing happens most often when printing small parts and models because the distance between the nozzle and the next location is shorter.

Cause:
  • Common problems include retraction distance (how much plastic is pulled out of the nozzle) and retraction speed (how fast plastic is pulled out of the nozzle).
  • It could also be that the extruder is too hot, which melts the thermoplastic and makes it leak too much.
Solution:
  • Check how your 3D printer is set up for retracting. Set up the distance and speed of retracting for the material you are printing on. You can see improvements if you increase or decrease the distance by 1mm.
  • If the extruder temperature is too high, turn it down, even if that means going against what the material manufacturer says. Your 3D printer might run hotter than it says. Try different things to find the best way to print.

3. Layer separation and splitting

When layers separate, they break apart when they are printed, ruining the session. Each layer must be printed so that it sticks perfectly to the layer below it. If not, parts can break and warp, which wastes a lot of materials.

Cause: 
  • The most common reason for layer separation is when there are too many layers and too much plastic is pushed through. So that the layers stick together well, the layer height should be about 20% smaller than the diameter of the nozzle.
  • Low print temperatures, which stop thermoplastics from bonding chemically, are another cause of layer separation.
Solution:
  • Adjust the height of your layers for the nozzle. I will suggest to keep a layer height that is 20% smaller than the diameter of your nozzle. (For example, 0.32mm for a 40mm nozzle).
  • If you print at a temperature that is too low, turn it up a bit. Most rigid thermoplastics can be tried in steps of 3°C without risk.

4. Blobs and zits 

When you turn a printer on and off, the extruder system goes through some changes that can cause blobs and zits on the printing surface.

Causes:
  • Blobs and zits can be caused by settings for retraction and coasting. If flaws show up as soon as the perimeter is printed, you need to change your retraction settings to account for how far the extruder moves between stops.
Solution: 
  • By changing the settings for retraction, you can avoid small surface problems like blobs and zits. If the problem happens when the extruder stops, the coasting setting can help turn off the extruder a little before it gets to the edge. Coasting sets how fast the nozzle moves when the extruder isn't pushing material out.

5. Weak Infill

Infill is a key part of how strong and rigid a 3D print is. Infill is what connects the print surface to the interior, making a model that is only partially solid. If the infill is weak, it can affect the accuracy and strength of the dimensions.

Cause:
  • Sometimes, 3D printers struggle with certain infills when fast print speeds overexert the extruder. Another cause is thin infill walls, which make parts lighter, weaken the infill structure, and make it snappable.
Solution: 
  • Try an alternate infill pattern and see if problems persist. Grid, triangular, honeycomb, cubic, and rectilinear are infills most 3D printers can handle.
  • You can also try printing with thicker infill walls, increasing print time but making it easier for the printer to work on complex shapes.

If you enjoyed this article about 3D printing please follow this blog for such more interesting 3D printing topics. Till then Keep Learning, Keep Growing.......

















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